WHAT GARDENERS desire TO hump
By Dr. Leonard PerryExtension Nursery and Greenhouse Crops SpecialistUniversity of Vermont
Thanks to the Internet , I ’m in contact with gardeners all over the world . They have head about growing and care for perennials , how to deal with pests , and other horticultural issues … probably some of the same questions and concerns you have about your prime garden .
So , I think I would deal some of the most frequent expect inquiry . If you want to find out what else others are involve – or post a question of your own – go to the oft asked questions section of my Website at http://www.uvm.edu/~pass/perry/garden-forum-education/pumpkins/faq-on-big-giant-pumpkins-atlantic-giant-pumpkin/. Because of the mass of question I get , I ’m not always able-bodied to answer them all , but will manage with the most democratic ace on my site . It ’s most helpful to me if you include your geographic location and a flake about your grow environment if you submit a head .
Here ’s what inquiring nurseryman want to screw :
Q : I have a dense specter area by a quoin of the sign of the zodiac with no sun . It is hard to see something to grow here . Hostas and hydrangea do okay . I would like to plant something else but have had no luck . Could it be the territory ? ( Ohio )
A : It is probably the dense ghost and not the ground that realize it hard to grow industrial plant there . Funka are dependable for this , but watch over for slugs . Other choice for dense tint include fern , bishop’s hat ( Epimedium ) , astilbe , gingerroot ( Asarum ) , deadnettle ( Lamium ) , lily of the valley , lilyturf ( Liriope , warm climates ) , spurge ( Pachysandra ) , lungwort ( Pulmonaria ) , foamflower ( Tiarella ) , vinca , viola , and barren strawberry ( Waldsteinia ) . For dry nuance try hostas , epimediums , deadnettle , vinca , foamflower , viola , and barren strawberry mark .
Q : We lately had a devastating hailstorm that destroyed all of our flora . What is the best way to care for plants that have been stick down in such a manner ? Should I cut them back ? If so , how much ? ( North Dakota )
A : First , my condolences for your violent storm and plant loss . A violent storm a few year ago ripped my hosta leaf and put hole in them . And just recently we had another hailstorm here in Vermont that caused extra price .
With plants such as hostas or peonies that only develop once in the time of year , reduce off any parts that are definitely part and will only exit . The rest , even though unsightly , can be forget . Just see for signs of disease , and cut these part off .
For most other perennials that might regrow , rebranch , or recover , cut off the upset stems that , again , will only die . If the plant run to branch , cut back to the leaf node ( where leaf connect root word ) where raw branches will come out .
Some , such as the many repeated geraniums and repeated salvias , can be cut back to either new basal development , or to within a few inches of the undercoat if early on in the season , and new shoot should come forth . day lily and iris diaphragm , which are commonly cut back to within six to12 in of the ground when divided , can be tailor back to this meridian . They may not grow much this time of year , but the foliage will help progress firm roots for the next year .
Q : I need to know if I have to trim back my Purple Allium flower ? They are huge , and I do n’t want to cut off the tops if I am not reckon to . ( Utah )
A : You are probably talk about the jumbo Allium ( or globe Allium ) , an Allium cepa relative . For all member of this family you may cut the flowers off after salad days , and , in fact , with many you want to in fiat to keep them from reseed prolifically . Just leave behind some foliage to continue growth . you may even keep the narrow-minded foliage of some you ’ve cut back ( such as with chives ) as they regrow from the base .
Q : “ Something ” feed my Solomon Seals . A rabbit ? Bugs ? Creepy crawlies ? What can I do ? ( Ohio )
A : Has your Solomon Seal resprouted ? If not , dig around the root to see if they are still there , perhaps with buds , or just mushy and rotting . Many perennials with this kind of damage early in the time of year will eventually resprout , or if late in the time of year resprout next year , so be patient . If insect are the problem , you will usually see them jaw on leafage . If the leaves have holes , and your planting is in damp shade , it could be biff . Or the culprit could be a larger mammal , as you intimate , like a rabbit . See my pamphlet on these pests and control at http://pss.uvm.edu/ppp/pubs/OH52anml.htm
Q : My primrose leaves are very limp and falling off . Some are black . The industrial plant does n’t look like it needs piddle . It has fertilizer and food . What ’s wrong ? ( Alaska )
A : If the plant has wilt leaves , yet spate of water in the soil , it could mean that water supply is n’t touch the leaves due to a root disease triggered by fungi , or stem disease from bacterium . If the latter , there is not much you could do except slash the industrial plant .
If the root are mushy or discolored or darker than the usual white roots of most plants , you in all probability have a ancestor disease . Remove the morbid roots , repot or replant the works , and keep the soil on the dry side . Hopefully , Modern root word will work , and the plant will recover . you may buy fungicides for root rot , but often they are specific for the disease with no one chemical substance enshroud all . match with your local university plant symptomatic lab or your local Extension office for supporter in identifying the disease if the cultural treatment above do n’t work .
Q : My althaea farewell are reverse brown and withering . There is enough rainfall , so dryness is not the problem . What can I do to save them ? ( Vermont )
A : It could either be a leafage disease , or other disease to stems or roots ( this could include other damage ) that does n’t let water get from roots to foliage . Most likely it is rust-brown disease . You should see rust spots on leaf undersides ( yellow on top ) that will eventually make them to yellow , wither , and come down off , commence with blue ace first .
get rid of the septic leaves that you see at beginning of the season . you’re able to habituate chemical sprays , as well as some organic I such as S , but see with your local garden center . Control often means frequent reapplications .
My althea usually get this but still blossom fine . It is a common disease , and takes a circumstances of endeavor to control . abridge back infected parts after bloom and keep to destruct any plant piece that get more rust , as it may overwinter on these .
