The trouble is potatoes are notorious for one particularly devastating disease : tater blight . regrettably for us , blight , like all good disease , changes as rapidly as breeders seek to figure out how to block off it , always stay one step ahead of the game .
Blight in potatoes is triggered by a fungus that goes by the Latin name Phytophthora infestans . Its signs are wanton to make out : the leave get small browned - sinister spot surrounded by a pale doughnut , and when it rain down , the bottom of the leaves may rick blanched and flossy . These are the hyphae that the fungus uses to colonise . Blight can diffuse with impressive amphetamine , causing the complete collapse of foliage within a few poor days . In severe vitrine the tuber underground can become infected , giving rise to sunken plot and a brown putrefaction . As a result , other bacterium and fungi often get into the potato and make them stink dreadful while deform them into a mushy stack .
infection are most common during Smith Periods , which are two days in a row when temperatures do n’t cast below 10 ° C ( 50 ° F ) and humidness stays above 90 % for most of the day . spore can come from knot aside , so it ’s pointless to try on to keep them from flummox to your plants .

In ideal experimental condition , transmission is almost certain if the parting that are infect are plastered , which makes it well-to-do for the harmful spore to get into the flora ’s vascular system of rules . During showery days , blight - damaged leaves will release spores that will fall to the soil and make their mode to the worthful tubers .
In society to forfend blight in the first place , there are a number of thing that can be done . If it does happen , the first thing that you should do is stay calm and lay off the transmission . You may have caught it just in time . Clean your lopper blades with soapy water between cuts to keep the disease from spreading from plant to establish . Then implore for teetotal weather condition .
If more than 10 % of the leaves are infected , you ’ll have to cut them all off . This is the gunpoint where they ca n’t be saved . This will clear intercept the tubers underground from grow any further , and it will also stop the disease in its cart track . If you allow it go on its own , it would have ruin your whole craw . Once the leaf is removed , leave behind well alone for three week before excavating your tubers . They should have a thicker skin by now and be quick to store . Any blight spore that were still alive should have died . Thoroughly inspect the genus Tuber for any signs of blight , discarding any that have succumbed . Dry the wakeless tubers ( never , ever lave them clean ! ) before stack away in a cool , morose and ironic place .
Infected leafage is okay for compost in a prospering compost cumulus . Put the leaves in with other things that you want to compost , and keep the process going swimmingly by turn the stuff around to keep it red-hot . Since the spore wo n’t be active for long , it ’s very unlikely that the ruined compost will infect a new crop of potatoes . The spores can , however , overwinter on murphy , so keep blighted tubers well clear-cut of your compost flock .
My gran always tell apart me that it ’s better to avoid problems than to ready them , so the best thing to do is to avoid blight all in all . There are three step to take : planting outside of the blight danger period , picking variety that are resistant to blight , and being very careful with the growing and cleaning .
When potatoes are grown outside of the peril period , they are grouped by when they were plant and when they are ready to be beak . The earliest to latest spuds are in this order : first earlies , second earlies and maincrops . If engraft early enough , most former motley and some of the first maincrops to maturate will be pick well before in high spirits summertime , when blight is more probable to happen . To make certain you have a tidy sum of potatoes before the blight period , you could embed potato growing bag full of potatoes under back in early fountain , making sure to keep them safe from hoar . By late saltation , you could move them out of doors . This will almost for sure give a crop by other summertime . See my blog entry on growing spud in container for more on this .
Blight - resistant varieties : Some varieties expose a sensible amount of resistance to blight . However , this is a invariably changing mental picture as smorgasbord once resistant fall susceptible to the ever - adapting fungus . Pick a miscellany that is known to have both resistant leaf and tuber . Suitable varieties include those in the Sarpo range – such as Sarpo Mira or Sarpo Axona . North American gardeners should also keep an eye out for Defender .
Cultivation techniques and hygiene : Only ever embed brisk , certified disease - liberal germ potatoes . Trying to store your own genus Tuber is a waste of money and makes blight and other diseases much more likely .
When you water plants during a juiceless while , ensure you only wet the bases of the plants and not the leaves . Do this first thing in the morning so that any H2O on the parting can evaporate as the day gets lovesome . Take the time to properly till the ground and cover it with constitutive matter mulch to keep the water in the ground . supernumerary - thick mulches , like straw , will give any spores that come down to the earth a long means to travel , protecting the uprise tubers from getting infected .
Never allow white potato vine Tennessean – plants that spring up from honest-to-god tubers – to remain . Grub them out so you do nt inadvertently channel over trouble from one year to the next . In the same nervure , ensure you harvest every last potato at harvest prison term . This will give blight nowhere to hide during the winter or nonoperational period .
It may feel like a military operation to do all of these things , and most year you would n’t get blight at all . But knowing about potato blight before of fourth dimension can help you void it . With a small cognition and careful gardening , you should never have to care about it .
Black spots on potato leafage are a vernacular issue that can significantly strike your potato crop if leave untreated . These dark lesions are usually due to fungal disease like early blight or late blight . While grim spots can seem alarming , there are several in force ways to do by and prevent their occurrence in your potato plot of land .
What Causes Black Spots on Potato Leaves?
The two most common fungous culprits behind black spotting on potato foliage are early blight ( Alternaria solani ) and late blight ( Phytophthora infestans ) .
Early blight thrives in hot , dry condition and first appear as small , dark brown spots with concentric tintinnabulation on older leaves near the base of the plant . As the fungal infection worsen , the fleck grow expectant and more numerous , finally causing entire leaves to yellow , wither and become flat .
later blight favors cooler bedwetter atmospheric condition and set out as pale unripened water - soaked place on parting that chop-chop enlarge into declamatory blackish - dark-brown lesions . A white-hot fungous growth may look on the bottom of infected leaf in very humid conditions . Late blight can spread speedily and lay waste to entire crops within just a few week .
Both fungous diseases survive winter in infected tubers , industrial plant debris and soil . winding , rainfall splashing and garden instrument easily spread spores to infect new foliage in outflow and summer Healthy , vigorous plants can better jib infection , but strain Tuber and weakened foliage are extremely vulnerable
How to Prevent Black Spots on Potato Leaves
An snow leopard of bar is unfeignedly worth a pound of cure when it comes to fungal diseases on potatoes . Here are some effective ways to help avoid those telltale pitch-dark folio spots :
Choose disease - resistant spud varieties – appear for former maturing potato as well as cultivars described as resistant to early or late blight .
Allow for good airflow – Avoid overcrowding and prune lower leave to encourage airflow .
Water at the base of plants – practice soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep water off foliage .
appropriate leaf to dry – H2O ahead of time in the daytime so leaves dry quickly .
Practice crop rotation – Do n’t plant potatoes in the same place for at least 3 years .
get rid of weeds/ debris – Eliminate topographic point fungal spores can overwinter .
post plant if need – Keep leaf off the soil to avoid wet leaves .
Apply preventative constituent fungicides – strain copper , sulfur or bacillus subtilis products .
watch regularly – pick up issuance early on before they escalate .
How to Treat Existing Black Spots on Leaves
If preventive measure have failed and those dark black leaf spots appear , prompt legal action is needed to preserve your crop :
Remove Infected Leaves
dress off any leafage with black smirch lesions , specially low leaves near the grime . fix pruners between each snub with rubbing alcohol to quash spreading spore . Removing the infected leaves preclude fungal spore from spreading .
Improve Air Circulation
Allow more distance between Irish potato plant by thinning overladen section . Gently prune and garnish low leafage to improve airflow . void working amid pissed industrial plant – wait for leaves to fully dry first .
Apply Organic Fungicide Sprays
Organic fungicidal sprays can help stop fungous spread when apply at first lot of leaf spots . seem for OMRI - list products with active ingredients like copper , hydrogen peroxide , sulfur , neem petroleum or bacillus subtilis bacterium . covering leaf tops and undersides exhaustively and reapply as directed on the label .
Consider Synthetic Fungicide Application
For severe bootleg spot outbreaks , targeted software of semisynthetic antifungal agent may be warranted as a last resort to save the remaining crop . Chlorothalonil and mancozeb products are labeled for use on edible plants . rigorously surveil all rubber instruction and never apply these chemical substance right before harvest time .
Stop Overhead Watering
Avoid using sprinklers or any organization that wet potato foliage . Instead , water only at soil point with drip mold irrigation or soaker hose to keep farewell dry . Water in the morning so works dry out during the twenty-four hours . Wet foliage encourages fungal disease .
Destroy Severely Infected Plants
If smuggled foliage spots cover more than 30 % of the foliage , the potato plant are likely too far move to save . Pull up the entire diseased plants and put in the trash , not the compost down . remove the infected potatoes is decisive to forbid fungal spore spread .
Allow Tubers to Cure in Soil
If white potato vine tops must be removed betimes due to excessive leaf spotting , go away the Tuber underground for 2 - 3 week to allow hide to thicken before aristocratical harvest . Curing produce them less prone to skin damage and disease entry .
Disinfect Garden Tools
Clean and sanitise all gardening tools after habit around septic plants . Soak pruner , hoses , bet etc . in a 10 % bleach root for 10 bit , then rinse unobjectionable before storing or reusing in the potato patch .
Monitor Potato Storage Carefully
train harvested potatoes oftentimes for any signs of fungous infection like plastered rot or hokey spots . take out and destroy affected tubers immediately to prevent disease counterpane . Store only clean , entire potatoes from disease - innocent plant .
dissemble cursorily at the first lot of black leaf detection is central to keep your potato crop . Focus on better plant life health and reducing fungal spore spread . When possible , rely on organic glide slope first before considering celluloid fungicides as a last refuge . With proper intervention and preventative care , you may still harvest a bountiful murphy harvest despite some early spotting on leaves .
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If you involve assistant project your vegetable garden , try our Vegetable Garden Planner .
Blight: 5 Ways to Control Potato Blight (Late Blight)
FAQ
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